Camino Walkers 2015: Day 31 - Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela

We were up at 6:00 am and out by 6:30 for the final push to Santiago. We wanted to ensure that we would be at the cathedral for the Pilgrims' Mass. We shipped our backpacks to our hotel because we knew they weren't allowed in the cathedral.

It was cool and clear and we started off at a good clip. We stopped for a WC and coffee within the city limits and made it to the cathedral by 9:00am. Since we were so early, we decided to line up at the Pilgrims' Office as it had not as yet opened and there were only twelve people in line. By 9:30 we had our Compostelas and Certificates for Distance. Ada dedicated her Compostela to her late husband, Iain, who had originally thought of walking the Camino.

We toured the cathedral through it's many chapels. We met with our Italian friend who had raced in from Arzua (almost 40 kilometres) and was waiting for his friends to meet him. We then mounted the stairs to hug the statue of St. James. They call this "hugging the Apostle". You mount steps behind the altarpiece to hug the central statue of St James from behind. As no photos are allowed in the small space and the gilded statue is so shiny, it was only possible to show the photo of the St. James statue here.

Pat hugged the apostle with a special prayer for those at home. The next visit was to the crypt to view the silver casket where the bones of St. James are interred.

We left to find breakfast and prepare to return for the Pilgrims' Mass at 12:00 noon. The church was absolutely packed, standing room only. We were lucky to get a seat although the view was somewhat obstructed. Announcements were made about the visitors from all countries who had received their Compostelas. Since there was a huge group of beautifully dressed Spaniards present, we assumed that they were dressed for a wedding today. We believed that some of them were participating in the service by reading from the bible.

The Mass was truly moving. Two nuns lead the singing while there were at least twelve priests in their white robes at the altar. The service was projected on speakers and video screens throughout the cathedral so that the thousand in the congregation could participate. The organ volume was specular and reverberated beautifully in the wonderful accoustics of the architecture.

With the twelve priests, the delivery of the sacrament went very smoothly and the Mass concluded with the arrival of the young priests in red attire preparing for the Pilgrims' special event. They lowered the Botafumeiro with it's 3 inch thick rope and lit the incense. With the nine attendants pulling, they swung the incense in a huge arc over the congregation. It was spectacular. It is understood, that historically, the pilgrims smelled so badly that they had to perfume the air to disguise the odour. Now it is only done on special occasions for historical and emotional reasons. After our month long walk, this was truly emotional!