Leaving Najera, the sun was shining on a red hill, reminiscent of the Grand Canyon and the Arizona area with caves dug into the hill.
We climbed a hill through fields of grapes and wheat, beautiful patchwork fields with the hills in the distance.
Between Azofra and Ciruena we were greeted by an enthusiastic young man who. Pointed out 60 % youth unemployment in Spain. As he did not want to leave Spain, he set up a little roadside stand serving crafts, fruit and drinks to the Pilgrims as they approached Ciruena.
We entered Ciruena, seeing our first golf course with people actually playing. Surprisingly, the Golf Clubhouse offered Pilgrim's special meals. We didn't walk far until we realized why. There was not a soul in the town! There was block after block of condo buildings, many with "for sale" signs, a filled swimming pool as well as a soccer field. And NOT A single person! We walked 2 km further looking for coffee when we should have just gone into the golf club.
We booked into the very first alberge in Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Abadia Cistercienses with the Cistercian Nuns. Feeling thankful for the welcome (and the 5 Euro bed) we went to the Vespers Service in the adjoining church. The Vespers were sung in Spanish by the 18 nuns and we did recognize the word "hallelujah" and the recitation of the "creed". It really was beautiful.
We had our supper (grocery store curried chicken/couscous and greens salad plus wine) with a Dutch couple that we have been meeting on and off for the past few days.
I should have noted the ghost town in your book! Wendy and I wanted to stay with the nuns, but they were full.
ReplyDeleteI can't drink and walk either.